You may view these photos as a slide show or an indexed list. There is also a trip map (BIG, 1,100K!). A separate photo essay featuring flowers and plants is also available.
Be sure to visit NF Kings 2001 trip reports from Jim Reilly and PCT Packer!
This trip had been planned for months. Jim Reilly and I began corresponding early in 2001, about helping pull off a SEKI Hikers Yahoo Club annual meeting. The annual meeting never came about, but we discussed plans for a West-side Southern Sierra XC-trip, and soon settled on the North Fork of the Kings River as a focal point. We were both interested in the Blackcap Basin, particularly the area around Portal Lake, including Kettle Ridge, Blue Canyon, and Le Conte Divide. Our initial plan was to cross Kettle Ridge at Mantle Pass, near Hummingbird Lake. We would then travel north, cross-country, along the east side of the crest to Martha Lake, near Mount Goddard, then cross back to Blackcap Basin via Confusion Pass or Valor Pass.
As the trip date neared, we settled on a final group consisting of Jim Reilly, PCT Packer (Del), and myself. Then, at the last minute, SekiHiker (Bill Finch), just returning from Mexico, responded to earlier invitations and asked if the trip was on! He would join us, but only for about the first four days.
We met at the WIshon Village Store, near Wishon Reservoir, on the NF Kings River. Our starting point was the Rancheria Trailhead. It was cloudy and drizzly as we drove to the trailhead. As we hefted our packs and started hiking, it began to rain. Initially, we had hoped to make it to Halfmoon Lake, about 14 miles from the start. As the day wore on, it began raining harder, and it also bacame apparent that I would not be able to make it that far. We settled instead for Chimney Lake, about 10 miles from the trailhead. We were also treated to a hailstorm, a pattern which would be repeated for the following two afternoons.
The next day, we struck out for Halfmoon Lake, on the other side of Crown Pass, about 6 miles away. By this time, it was apparent that I would be setting a somewhat slower pace than the others in our group. However, my trip buddies were very kind, and focussed on the thrill and joy of being where we were. It is such fun to pitch a tent in a driving hailstorm!
The camp at Halfmoon Lake continued a "tradition" of white-gas inspired campfires, ostensibly to dry out critical items such as socks and toilet paper, but also to raise our spirits. Naturally, we consulted our permit documentation, to ensure that we were in compliance with all applicable regulations.
Our goal the next day was a group campsite near Portal Lake, about 8 miles up the North Fork of the Kings River from Halfmoon Lake. This hike took us through some boggy areas, featuring dense clouds of voracious mosquitos. Liberal amounts of DEET offered only a temporary respite from the attack. The only answer was to hike on.
That night, we were blasted by the most intense hail and rain storm of the trip, including thunder and lightning close by. We were hunkered down under a blanket of trees, just below timberline, but the pyrotechnics gave us a thrill anyway. Our third campfire, courtesy of Bill and Del, kept us a little less cold.
The next day, we headed down to the Crown Basin, toward Hummingbird Lake. We decided to hike up a creek to the east of the actual Hummingbird Creek drainage, and drop down to the lake from above. The hillside creek we hiked up turned out to be steeper, wetter, and more mosquito-ridden than I anticipated, but we made it all the same. Bill and Del were hiking ahead of Jim and me. We knew that Bill would be leaving soon to hike out on his own, and he took off during the day, over Mantle Pass above Hummingbird Lake. Jim and I spotted Del, and joined him at Hummingbird Lake, which was hopping with hungry fish.
The sky was threatening, and it did sprinkle a bit, but we decided to forgo a campfire. We found some cozy places to pitch our tents, for a two-day base camp. That evening, we hiked out on the immense slabs, for a better view up into Blackcap Basin and the other areas near our camp.
Our goal for the next day was to hike over Mantle Pass above Hummingbird Lake, and into upper Blue Canyon. We continued our slab-walking and cross-slope scrambling techniques, as we found our way to Blue Canyon Pass. This gave us spectacular views of the White Divide, Monarch Divide, Gorge of Despair, Le Conte Divide, Goddard Divide, Goddard Creek, and the Ionian Basin. By this time, we were reconciled to the notion that ours would be a base camp trip, exploring the high divides on day hikes.
After spending a second night at Hummingbird Lake, we headed back up Crown Basin toward Portal Lake. This time, we kept on going up to Pearl Lake, where we set up another base camp for a two-night stay. After setting up the camp, we day hiked over to the cliffs above Chapel Lake.
The next day, we struck out for Valor Pass, to look over the other side at Mount Goddard and Martha Lake. We briefly considered climbing Mount Reinstein, but decided it was beyond our reach as a group. On the way, we passed Division Lake, Ewe Lake, Ram Lake, Bighorn Lake, Ambition Lake, and Valor Lake. As before, we used slabs to make our ascent, whenever possible. From the Le Conte Divide Crest, it was awe inspiring to stare down at Martha Lake. There did not seem to be a speck of snow anywhere on immense Mount Goddard, or any of the other massive peaks in the area.
We spent a second night at Pearl Lake. The next morning, we headed out via Portal Lake and down the North Fork of the Kings. Del and Jim went out of their way to point out as many flowers as possible. On the way, we said hello to some friendly fish, who were obviously relieved that we did not have any fishing tackle. We made our way back over Crown Pass, to a trailside camp near Scepter Creek. On the way, we paused for our last views of the Blackcap Basin High Country. We were also treated to views of bear and mountain lion scats and footprints.
The next day, we headed over Chuck Pass, for the last few dusty miles remaining on our trip. We had a final view of Finger Rock, an impressive block of granite, but puny in comparison to the giants of the White and Le Conte Divides. The trip ended in an anticlimatic fashion, as we were fooled into coming out via an unofficial trailhead, about a mile from our actual starting point. After some confusion about which way the road actually led, the indomitable Super Del graciously offered to hike to his van, and drive back to pick up Jim and me.
Jim and I determined that this man must not buy his own dinner. With that, we retired to a pizza joint in Shaver Lake, for a last dinner together. Del continued on over Tioga Pass, to another East-side hike from South Lake to Dusy Basin, Knapsack Pass, and Le Conte Canyon. Jim and I drove back to Sacramento.
This was the most strenuous trip that I have ever been on! I don't know what the exact mileage is, but it seems like we went about 60 backpacking miles, plus 20 additional day hiking miles. It took my feet about a week to recover, including a nasty blister behind my right heel, which developed on day one. Still and all, it was a thrilling hike, and it was a lot of fun to hang out with JIm, Del, and Bill.
Photo Notes: My camera on this trip was the trusty old Canon AE-1P 35mm SLR. I hope you enjoy the pictures! You may view them as a slide show or an indexed list.
Be sure to visit NF Kings 2001 trip reports from Jim Reilly and PCT Packer!
Best Regards,
Frank R. Farmer
ffarmer
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